Just a curiosity question
Does anyone ever feel like a second class citizen when taking their VW in for service to a dealer that also sells and services Audi? On more than one occasion, I have been told that Audi customers take precedence over VW customers when porters go get the cars, service writers are doing triage and Enterprise is handing out loaners. Am I alone in this?
found this online. it helped me hope it helps others.
Follow these when stalling, hesitation, missing on transient throttle, or poor idle quality causes you to suspect the air flow/mass sensor:
1. Pull any trouble codes from the self-diagnostics, then erase the codes.
2. Check the basics — not only compression, vacuum, fuel pressure, ignition, and wire and connection condition, but also the air-tightness of the duct between the VAF/MAF and the throttle body.
3. If MAF, tap the sensor to see if the idle changes. Disconnect the MAF (key off) and see if the engine runs better.
4. If VAF, move the flap to feel for binding, roughness.
5. VAF or MAF, use a scan tool, lab scope, or DMM to catch any steps or jumps in the grams-per-second reading, or voltage or frequency signal.
6. Make the repairs, clear any new codes, and take a test drive to verify that the symptoms have been eliminated.
Got a 2.0 GLS 1999.5, Having missfires on 3&4, and a code for Fuel air Meetering. The car hesitates and sputters when not run for a while dont know.. got new wires, plugs. Now the car does have a 3″ AEM cold intake on it. If anyone has any ideas hit me up chrisbohaker@hotmail.com or reply to post.
here is a link to vw’s tsb’s list. make sure to click on get summary for more info.
I am uk user and have had a clutch failure at 10,000 miles. clutch has been inspected independently and i have been informed that the clutch is not worn at all, the clutch seems to have burnt out and of course vw wont cover it on the warranty. This has cost me 615.00 and of course i am furious. VW customer care say they can not help me towards the cost as it is user failure, and will not allow me to talk to there technical engineers as their word is final. I have driven a various assortment of cars over the last 20 years and cannot believe that a clutch can fail at only 10,000 miles and surely this must be a manufacturing fault or failure of flywheel etc…… can anyone help me with this matter at I am having no joy from VW??
I’ve read on different message boards that Turbos need to “cool down” before shutting off the engine. What does this mean? Sorry, I am not the most mechanically inclined and want to do the right thing. I’d appreciate any help. 
I am having problems with the engine idle. The idle speed has started to fluctuate severely, or the engine will even stall when I am coasting to a stop, or at a stoplight. Oddly enough, if I shift the car to neutral, the idle returns to normal. There is no dash light on, so the dealer won’t hook it up to check for faults. I am wondering if it is either the throttle body, or the mass airflow sensor?
I am confused though because the problem gets much worse if I turn on the turn signals, or wipers, or anything that draws power, but goes away completely when you shift the car into neutral. Any ideas anyone? -Kyle
I have a 2002 Jetta 1.8T and here is the list of problems I have had to date. Tell me if this is normal or I have a true lemon.
- 5 flat tires, low profile 17″” rims, non have been salvageable, $230 a piece (not caused by nails or anything but driving)
- One window fell into the door, recalled.
- Another window fell into the door (despite the fact that the recall made them replace all of the window motors)
- Engine coils went out, recalled.
- Given the wrong wheel lock, had to be towed 120 miles home to replace tire.
- Automatic Shifter snapped in half at the hilt, had to be towed 120 miles home, replacement took 4 weeks.
- Shifter replacement resulted in destroyed chrome plate, had to be replaced later.
- Light behind A/C console went out
- After A/C light repare, floor air stopped working.
- Cigarette Lighter shorted out
- Latch on the center console snapped off
- Rubber coating on the door handles is peeling off
- Keyring on the key snapped off
- Oh, and the engine light is on right now.
Is that enough to get out of my lease a couple months early?
So I take my 2003 Jetta wagon to Jim Ellis in Marietta, GA to get a few things fixed “”under warranty.”" I figure a 2 year old car with 30K miles would fall into the 4 year/50,000 mile category. Oh, I am so wrong. Rattles of any sort are considered “”wear & tear”" items, which is 12 MONTHS 12,000 MILES and this nasty one will cost ME $350. What a joke! Used car dealers will offer a better warranty. Funny, Jeep (which is often slammed for bad service and bad cars) never thought that way. Or maybe they did. I just never had to get rattles fixed in my Grand Cherokee, so I would never know. But Jasper Jeep did replace the transmission FIVE times at no cost to me, so there. I thought that getting a Nazi, I mean, G E R M A N made car would mean a more solid car with better dealer support. I have asked for too much yet again…
Now I know why my Mom loves her Volvo wagon so much. 101K, four visits to the dealer and each one was covered by some warranty with a FREE loaner car. OK, I feel better. No wait! Jim Ellis still has my Jetta and is trying to fix the CV joints…
And forget trying to get rental reimbursement out of them, after they stated they would cover a rental after the first day. Liars. They did eventually pay after I called Jim Ellis HQ to complain and threaten to go to another dealer for service and new car purchase. I think the new car purchase is what swayed them.
I read on another sight that VW considers one quart of oil every twelve hundred miles as normal consumption. Does this level of oil consumption effect the lifespan of the catalytic converter? I know that dumping excess gas into the exhaust stream shortens the life of the catalytic converter. Those people that had the ignition coil problem will probably have a shortened lifespan of their catalytic converter. They should have their cars tested by an independent mechanic before the federally mandated lifespan of their catalytic converter is reached.
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