check engine/epc light
i have a 2001 jetta that has been giving me a ton of problems. it recently started to stall and when idle the rpm’s go up and down in no discernible pattern. it also has been kind of sluggish when accelerating. i replaced spark plugs, spark plug wires, changed the oil and the fuel filter. i replaced the engine coolant sensor which was supposedly causing one of the check engine codes. i sealed a crack in the cover to the air filter. i cleared the check engine codes and they stayed off for 3 days (during which the car ran great) now the check engine light is on again. today while driving home the car just started slowing down for no reason no matter how hard i stepped on the accelerator. i pulled over and the epc light came on for a while and then turned off. i know that i will probably need to take it into a dealer, but i was just wondering if anyone could offer any suggestions as to what is going on with this car because i am about ready to push it off a cliff. (also, i am VERY poor, so if anybody has any suggestions of things i could try myself that would be fabulous. thanx.)
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297 Said,
February 10, 2006 @ 7:13 am
check engine/epc light – EPC means a functional problem with the engine (EPC = Engine Power Control). Most folks freak out when the MIL/CEL goes off, but that’s more related to emissions or a sensor noticing something didn’t quite stay within a preset range that it considers normal. When the EPC goes off, the car will usually go into limp mode (loss of power) or shut down completely to protect the engine.
Check the catalytic converter and O2 sensors. Make sure the exhaust is not restricted.
What type engine is this? 2.0L, 1.8T or VR6?
lp55 Said,
February 10, 2006 @ 9:48 am
check engine/epc light – 2.0L
297 Said,
February 11, 2006 @ 12:02 pm
check engine/epc light – I don’t think the coolant sensor on the 2.0L was ever a problem (only on <2002 1.8T).
Two other things to check: MAF and brake light switch.
Both can cause the engine to stall/lose power abruptly if they are malfunctioning; the engine computer puts the engine into safe mode or shuts it down to prevent what it thinks may cause catastrophic damage — it’s really a good thing, it’s just that it’s sensitive when one of several sensors malfunctions.
A MAF is around $40-60, the brake light switch $10-15. Both are easily replaceable without the help of a mechanic, but you’ll need a set of Torx screwdrivers.
Those two are my likely suspects instead of the O2 sensors and cat, now that I reread your post.
lp55 Said,
February 15, 2006 @ 6:14 am
check engine/epc light – thanks everyone. i replaced the mass airflow sensor and had to replace the plastic casing around the air filter (it was cracked and letting in cold air). i have yet to clear the check engines codes so i won’t know whether it’s fixed til i do that. if it’s still acting strange i will try your other suggestions.
vabeachautohaus Said,
February 15, 2006 @ 12:36 pm
check engine/epc light – I suspect a possible malfunction in the throttle body is causing this problem.The system is a drive by wire system,the brake light switch,mass air flow sensor and accel pedal assembly all are on this circuit.I would have the throttle angle set first too see if the throttle body motor is internally shorting.This has to be done by computer at the dealer unless you know some-one with the ability to do this.